The Untold Story of Everest 1985
Colonel Ashok Tanwar
Introduction
In 1985, the Indian Army launched an ambitious expedition to climb Mount Everest during the challenging post monsoon period from two routes: The formidable Southwest Face and the South Col route. The expedition required great skill, physical fitness, endurance, team work, courage, and determination.
Originally to be led by Lieutenant Colonel Prem Chand, regarded as ‘One of the best climbers of his time’, the expedition faced a sudden change in leadership when Lieutenant Colonel Prem Chand fractured his arm just before the expedition was set to begin. As a result, leadership passed to Brigadier Jagjit Singh while the team was enroute to Base Camp.
This team was considered one of the strongest ever to attempt the mighty Everest. However, the expedition, failed to summit and tragically, five officers lost their lives. In the aftermath, the expedition underwent thorough scrutiny, with close analysis of its conduct, decision-making processes, leadership, and the personal ambitions of some of its climbers.
This book offers a first-hand account of that fateful expedition, shedding light on its events and providing invaluable lessons for future mountaineering endeavours.
About the Author
Colonel Ashok Pratap Tanwar, commissioned into 4 GUARDS in 1981, is a seasoned adventurer, photographer, and author of four books, including A Triumphal Odyssey. As a cadet, he completed the first Mountain Adventure Course at High Altitude Warfare School and undertook a 2,000 km ‘Bike Hike’. He also documented the entire 76 km stretch of the Siachen Glacier. During the Everest Expedition, he rose from a support role to lead the first summit attempt, becoming the only surviving climbing officer of the South Col team. Post-retirement, he continues to contribute to adventure literature, drawing on records by Colonel Ajit Dutt.
About the Book
Climbing a mountain is not merely an exercise; it is a passionate devotion. Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, commands respect and continues to draw mountaineers with its distinct physical, mental, and psychological challenges. It remains the ultimate challenge for humanity, with its summit reaching high above the liveable troposphere. Everest possesses its own aura, and the challenges it presents to climbers are uniquely daunting in scale and complexity.
As a climber ascends even to moderate altitudes, the air becomes thinner. At 5,500 m, there is only half the amount of oxygen available compared to sea level. While at sea level, blood is typically saturated with 98-99 per cent oxygen; at Everest’s summit, this drops dramatically to only around 40 per cent. If the ascent continues steadily, increasing the climber’s sleeping altitude each night, the body struggles to keep pace with the ever-decreasing oxygen supply, placing extreme physiological demands on the climber.
In May 1982, the then Army Chief, General Krishna Rao, PVSM announced that the Indian Army would launch an expedition to climb Mount Everest. Preparations commenced, including selection trials where Indian Military Academy Gentleman Cadets (GCs) undertook climbs of Trishul and Kamet as part of their training. During the Kamet expedition, one of the members, GC Prem Prakash received the news that he had been commissioned into 2 MAHAR, marking a memorable moment in his journey.
The expedition, approved by General Arunkumar Shridhar Vaidya, PVSM, MVC**, AVSM, appointed Lieutenant Colonel Prem Chand as the team leader. In Aug 1984, the team was assigned the challenging South Col and South West Face routes. Following rigorous training and thorough preparation of essential equipment, the expedition departed from Delhi on 04 Aug 1985, beginning the approach march on 11 Aug from Jiri, a roadhead 180 kms from Kathmandu. The advance party had already begun their trek to the Base Camp two days prior. The first major obstacle arose when heavy rains washed away the bridge across the Dudh Koshi River at Numtala. The team responded by constructing an improvised ropeway to transport personnel and supplies across the river and building a log bridge near Namche.
The team established Base Camp on 26 Aug and began navigating the challenging Khumbu Icefall, setting up Camp I at an altitude of 20,000 feet on 07 Oct. The following day, they progressed towards Camp II through a crevasse-filled area, using ladders and ropes; Camp II also served as the Advanced Base Camp for both climbing routes. Camp III was established on the Lhotse Face by 14 Sep and was occupied by 20 Sep, at an altitude of 24,000 feet, after weather-related delays. The team then pursued two routes: the South Col and the more demanding South West Face, establishing Camps III and IV by 30 Sep at 23,000 and 23,700 feet, respectively. On the South Col route, after successfully navigating the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur, the first summit party left Base Camp on 27 Sep, reached the South Col on 02 Oct, and pushed the route to Camp IV at 25,500 feet by 05 Oct. However, the team was ultimately forced to abandon this summit attempt due to adverse weather conditions.
Following this, a second attempt was made by a team of eight climbers, including a Sherpa, led by Major KI Kumar. They reached the South Col and set off for the summit at 0600 hrs on 07 Oct, despite poor weather conditions. Battling through white-out conditions and knee-deep snow, they managed to reach within ‘Handshaking Distance’ of the South Summit by 1400 hrs but were forced to abandon the attempt. A second team, led by Major Jai Bahuguna, followed them. Tragically, on the descent, Major KI Kumar slipped and suffered a fatal fall, plummeting 4,000 feet from the South Col and landing near Camp II.
As the weather deteriorated, the expedition leader instructed all teams to return to the Advanced Base Camp. The following morning, confirmation came that Major Jai Bahuguna’s team was descending, having been advised that adverse weather conditions were expected to persist for several days. However, only ten climbers made it back to Camp II.
As the remaining climbers descended, they found Lieutenant Ramneet Bakshi in a deteriorated state, suffering from snow blindness and exhaustion. Opting to stay with him at the South Col, they informed Base Camp that they would attempt the descent the following day. However, severe weather, including winds reaching up to 100 kmph, made any movement impossible. While two members managed to descend on 09 Oct with great difficulty, Major Bahuguna, Lieutenant MUB Rao, Captain VPS Negi, and Lieutenant Bakshi returned to Camp IV at the South Col, unable to locate the ropes on the Lhotse face due to the blinding conditions. The next day, a rescue team attempted to reach them but was unable to get past Camp III. On 11 Oct, after a gruelling ten-hour effort, a second rescue team finally reached Camp IV, only to find that Lieutenant Bakshi and Captain Negi had already succumbed to the elements. Shortly after, Major Bahuguna passed away in the rescuers’ presence. Lieutenant Rao, barely conscious, was carried by Havildar Gurung, who tragically slipped and fell 100 feet while attempting the descent. Miraculously, Gurung survived, but Lieutenant Rao sadly did not.
The climbers tackling the Southwest Face were instructed to return to Camp II due to deteriorating weather conditions. However, before withdrawing, they had made commendable progress, successfully opening a route up to just short of Camp VI.
At this critical juncture, Major General (later Lieutenant General) SK Pillai, PVSM, the Additional Director General of Military Training, flew into Base Camp with Lieutenant Colonel Prem Chand, who was reinstated as the team leader and he addressed the team members. Brigadier Jagjit Singh flew back in the same helicopter.
In the resilient ‘Never say die’ spirit of the Indian Army, the team resumed its attempt to scale the mountain on both routes, despite unprecedented snowfall that had damaged the pathways, requiring extensive re-fixing. By 27 Oct, they made a fifth attempt, only to be thwarted once again by near-cyclonic winds. The final push came on 28 Oct, but during the ascent, Lance Naik Anchuk was lifted by fierce winds and blown off the mountain. Naib Subedar Magan Bissa, who was roped to him, tried valiantly to arrest the fall but ended up tumbling 700 feet before coming to rest on a flat patch above South Col. Miraculously, they both survived. After six determined but unsuccessful attempts, the team, having tragically lost five officers, finally had to abandon their mission to summit Everest.
Incidentally, Major Jai Bahuguna’s elder brother, the late Major Harsh Bahuguna, had also lost his life while attempting to climb Mount Everest in Apr 1971. Similarly, Major KI Kumar was the younger brother of the legendary Colonel ‘Bull’ Kumar, adding a poignant legacy of mountaineering dedication within their families.
The book is a treasure trove of anecdotes and insights. One notable account involves the team leader writing directly to General Vaidya before the expedition, expressing frustrations over bureaucratic obstacles. In response, General Vaidya summoned him to his office, stating, “Prem, it is not you who has failed. It is I, as your Chief, who has failed to provide you with the necessary support. Give me one month, and if the required support is still not in place, I will call off the expedition”.
In the book, Colonel Tanwar states that while the team was enroute to Namche Bazar, Army Headquarters appointed 55-year-old Brigadier Jagjit Singh as the new team leader instead of promoting Lieutenant Colonel Pushkar Chand, the deputy leader. Though Brigadier Jagjit Singh was a seasoned mountaineer, he was considerably older than the rest of the team members. Upon assuming leadership, he promptly reviewed the climbing plan and recommended cancelling the attempt via the challenging Southwest Face, a proposal that Army Headquarters ultimately rejected. Additionally, he made several changes to the team’s appointments.
The book also highlights issues such as interference from the Military Training Directorate and the problematic supply of non-standard box tents, which further compounded the challenges faced by the expedition.
Conclusion
The book is an exceptional account of a unique adventure, capturing the multifaceted challenges of summiting Sagarmatha. Well-organised and enriched with remarkable photographs, it stands out as a testament to perseverance in the face of immense odds. It vividly illustrates how the overwhelming and unforgiving forces of nature ultimately thwarted the mission, making it a compelling read for those intrigued by tales of resilience and adventure.
What also stands out, is the profound camaraderie and unwavering bonds among the mountaineers. A poignant example is when Lieutenant Ranmeet Singh Bakshi, suffering from snow blindness amidst deteriorating weather, was steadfastly supported by his fellow climbers, who chose not to abandon him—even at the cost of their own lives. The book also highlights the courageous rescue attempts undertaken in perilous weather, including the determined efforts to retrieve the body of Major KI Kumar, showcasing the deep commitment and loyalty that defines the spirit of mountaineering.
The author has rendered an invaluable service by documenting the events of this expedition, vividly portraying the conditions of the mid-1980s that magnified the challenges and captured the very essence of the endeavour. The expedition, while ultimately labelled a ‘Failure’, provided foundational lessons and became a crucial stepping stone for subsequent successful ascents. The book is lucidly written, well laid out, and offers readers a compelling narrative rich with insights.
According to Colonel Narinder Bull Kumar, “All mountaineers need to read this book and ensure they do not repeat the mistakes of this expedition”. However, this is not just a book for mountaineers; it is essential reading for anyone with a passion for adventure and for those who serve in uniform.
Colonel Tanwar’s work serves as a valuable resource, shedding light on a significant chapter in India’s mountaineering history. The book delves into the meticulous planning, rigorous training, and the physical and psychological endurance required for such a formidable endeavour.
Major General Jagatbir Singh, VSM (Retd)
The Untold Story of Everest 1985, by Colonel AP Tanwar, Pages 432, Price ¹ 1,117, ISBN-10 is 9354934161, and ISBN-13 is 978-9354934162, Publisher Projectile
Journal of the United Service Institution of India, Vol. CLIV, No. 638, October-December 2024.
Review Article 2
Last of the Cavalrymen
Ana Scarf and Charlotte Scarf
Introduction
This book provides a first-hand account of the remarkable life of Robert Harley Wordsworth from New South Wales, Australia, who achieved military success in World War I with the Australian Army and later served with the British Indian Army, ultimately rising to the rank of Major General.
Post retirement, he returned to Australia, settling on his farm in Tasmania, where he embarked on another successful career in politics, serving as a Senator from Tasmania and later as the Administrator of Norfolk Island.
About the Editors
Encouraged by family and friends, Robert Harley Wordsworth, affectionately known as ‘Wordy’, gifted his daughter Ana Scarf and son David Wordsworth hours of recorded memories between 1979 and 1983. Ana and her daughter Charlotte took on the challenge of sharing his extraordinary story. This book is a compilation of those recordings, carefully organised, edited, and enriched with photographs, explanatory footnotes, and inputs from David and Ana’s husband, Chris.
About the Book
The book is divided into three parts: the first covers Wordsworth’s early years in Australia, his enlistment in the Australian 1st Light Horse Regiment, and his participation in the Battle of Gallipoli. It also details his role in the Sinai and Palestine Campaign, where he was ‘Mentioned in dispatches’ for his ‘Conspicuous Bravery’ in the Battle of Gaza.
The second and longest section of the book covers Wordsworth’s transfer in 1917 to the 16th Bengal Lancers, his service on the North-West Frontier during the inter-war years, and his command of the regiment during its transition from horses to mechanisation. Rapidly promoted during World War II, he advanced from Brigade to Divisional Commander, serving in the Middle East, Iran, and later as Major General of the Armoured Corps at General Headquarters in Delhi. He resigned from the Army in 1946, feeling a need for financial stability to support his family. The third part covers his second career as a farmer, Senator, and Administrator of Norfolk Island, where he engaged closely with the local community, working actively to uplift the island.
After graduating from school in Australia in late 1912, he began his compulsory military training with the 41st Infantry, a militia unit. Shortly after, he was invited to raise a troop for the 9th Light Horse Regiment, where he received his commission. In 1914, he joined the Great War, reflecting that “There was no thought of how we would have to fight and the hardships and terrible slaughter we would have to endure”. He expressed “Utter amazement that anyone could take on the great British Empire”.
In Gallipoli, he quickly became aware of the harsh realities of warfare, describing it as ‘A disastrous campaign’. They were ordered to “Take nothing ashore except what they could carry”, leaving him with just a toothbrush he could not use due to lack of water and clothes he could not change for six months—only turning them inside out after knocking off the lice. Life in the trenches was ‘Very Fatiguing’, and rank offered no protection; he vividly recalls Major General Bridges, the Australian Divisional Commander, being killed by a sniper.
He recalls the Allied August Offensive which was launched with two new British Battalions who were ‘Badly Trained’ who never pushed ahead and were busy cooking breakfast on the beach while the General commanding the Corps was in still in bed in his cabin on warship anchored near the harbour. He was amazed how well the Australians fought.
He then fought in the battles of Romani, Magdhaba, Rafa, and Gaza, where his unit even captured a Turkish General, only to be ordered to retreat just as the enemy began to surrender. Shortly afterward, General Allenby took over command from General Murray.
He transferred to the Indian Army after facing unreasonable orders from General Allenby regarding the spit-and-polish standards of his troops during wartime, especially given that no cleaning materials were provided. During the inspection, he was ‘Chewed up and spat out in no uncertain manner’, which ultimately prompted his decision.
He recalls that the ‘Army was the highest form of social life in India’ and ‘Very hard to get into’, noting that if he had not joined during the war, he would ‘Never have been accepted’ as he might not have been able to ‘Keep up the standard’. His success, he says, was largely due to his skills as a horseman and polo player, with ‘Buying, selling, and training polo ponies’ providing him with a modest private income.
He describes his retinue of staff and their caste system, stating that “It was one man, one job, and no man could do a different job from the one he was brought up in”. The book covers regimental life in detail, explaining how it varied with the seasons and the type of station where they were posted. There were three types of stations: ones for Internal Security, others to safeguard the frontier, and a third from where units could be moved overseas for ‘Imperial Defence’.
Their Regimental mess had a highly polished antique table, which was adorned with fine silver. Following their time in China, where they had been given ‘Permission to loot’, they acquired gold curtains, Ming vases, and pure gold temple bells—one of which was sold for GBP 1,00,000 in the 1920s, with proceeds used to buy a farm, among other purchases. In 1922, the regiment was re-designated as 6 DCO Lancers and remains part of the Pakistani Army today. Wordsworth commanded the regiment in Delhi, describing the role of a commanding officer as being the Mai Baap (guardian), and with his wife, Margaret, by his side, they shouldered these responsibilities with distinction.
However, they were ‘Unprepared for modern war; in 1939’, as parliament had never ‘Taken the necessary steps to modernise’. At the time, the 21 Cavalry Regiments did not have a single tank. It took considerable time to determine the future of the Cavalry, eventually deciding to convert them into Armoured Regiments equipped with tanks and armoured cars. Instead, they were initially provided with off-road buses, and horsemen had to learn to drive these. British officers were reluctant to give up polo and focus on teaching their men driving and maintenance skills. The transition from horses to tanks is thoroughly explored, with the reluctance to embrace change clearly highlighted. Ultimately, it was the remarkable fighting qualities of the Indian soldier that prevailed.
He left his regiment in 1940 and, over the next six years, commanded an Armoured Brigade, initially stationed in Risalpur, which then moved to Malir near Karachi, where each regiment was issued with only one tank instead of the authorised 45. In Jun 1941, he took command of an Armoured Division, leading it into Iran, where they ‘Soon became the best division in tank warfare’. He notes that “Hitler missed one of the greatest opportunities of the war” by focusing on Stalingrad instead of the oilfields of Persia and Iraq.
His command took him to Turkey, Italy, and Cairo, and he even served as Army Commander for four months, remarking that, in the Army, “The higher up you go, the more lonely one becomes”.
Conclusion
In reading the book, several impressions emerge. Firstly, there is a sense of disappointment regarding Wordsworth’s role in the two World Wars. There is also a feeling that, as an Australian without a private income, not from Sandhurst, and without Staff College credentials or ‘An old school tie’, he lacked certain traditional advantages. However, he compensated for these with his exceptional skills as a horseman and polo player.
A Regimental soldier, he spent most of his service with 16 Bengal Lancers, later re-designated as 6th Duke of Connaught’s Own Lancers , which remains part of the Pakistani Army today. At Independence, the Regiment’s Jat Squadron was transferred to 7 Cavalry and the Sikh Squadron to 8 Cavalry. The likely reason for the Regiment going to Pakistan was its assets being located there.
The other was his belief in the ‘Right and might’ of the British Empire, offering an insight into the life of the raj the shikar (hunt), polo, fishing trips, social life and servants as a result he never had to ‘Tie his shoelaces’.
He provides insight into the Non-Cooperation Movement following the Rowlatt Act and the Jallianwala Bagh incident, stating that General Dyer ‘Saved India from another mutiny’ and viewing him as ‘A hero and saviour of the Raj’. Wordsworth reflects on how the British ultimately turned against Punjab, the region that had provided the most manpower in World War I and helped shift the tide of the war. Yet, even years later, some still believe Dyer was justified, and, notably, a fund for him at the time raised GBP 1,00,000.
The book provides valuable insight into Army life, its diverse roles, and the transformation it underwent between the two World Wars. However, at its core, it reveals the insular world of British colonial rule, where figures like Wordsworth lived ‘A rich man’s life on a poor man’s income’ without ever bridging the gap with the Indian soldiers who served alongside them. The only Indian mentioned is his orderly, Jalal Khan, to whom he wrote annually until 1970, underscoring the bubble, he inhabited and what he deemed significant, unlikely so many others who maintained deep ties with the Indian Army they served in. For those interested in military history and colonial India, ‘Last of the Cavalrymen’ provides a compelling and informative read. The prose is engaging yet meticulous, appealing to both military history enthusiasts and casual readers interested in the nuanced journey of military transformation.
Major General Jagatbir Singh, VSM (Retd)
Last of the Cavalrymen: Memoirs of Major-General Robert Harley Wordsworth edited by Ana Scarf and Charlotte Scarf, Pages 273, Price AUD 49.95, ISBN 9780975640616, Publisher Forty South Publishing.
Journal of the United Service Institution of India, Vol. CLIV, No. 638, October-December 2024.
Author : Book Reviews,
Category : Journal
Pages : 735 | Price : ₹CLIV/638 | Year of Publication : October 2024-December 2024